Химия
и химические технологии/5. Фундаментальные проблемы
создания
новых материалов и технологий
Post graduate student Stepanischeva A.N.
Candidate of technical science Lavris E.V.
Moscow State University
of Design and Technology, Russian Federation
Possibility
of textile and composite materials combination for apparel manufacture
Successful
development of the apparel technologies for the purpose to produce clothes with
new unique properties is integral connected with introduction of new materials.
There is a demand for application of new technologies for creation of clothes
with new constructions for satisfaction of numerous requirements of modern
customers.
The creation of
garments with preset form-stability and zone distribution of rigidity is actual
task. This problem is solved by the means of rigid elements introduction into the
clothes construction. In apparel production the bones are used as rigid
elements for improvement of fitting on a figure and giving to an item demanded form.
For example, during the wear of skirts or trousers with one-piece cut out high
belt the formation of folds in the field of a waist and wrinkles and bendings of
a belt is possible. The bones placed in vertical seams eliminate folds and wrinkles.
In shoulder clothes the bones have wider application. They help to smooth a hem
of the garment, its neckline, side seams, relief seams and sleeve cuffs. It is
possible to emphasize a silhouette of a garment by the means of the bones [1].
However bones considerably increase labour input of clothes manufacturing process
and not always rationally change rigidity. For the sake to expand apparels
assortment it is necessary to develop a new method of rigid elements manufacturing
which will allow to form rigid details of the preset variable curvature and
thickness providing demanded for-stability with rational distribution of
rigidity in order to avoid a decrease in ergonomics.
The analysis of
new composite materials has shown that their application for manufacturing of
rigid elements in garments will allow to satisfy the indicated above requirements.
One class of composites has a textile filling as a reinforcing element. Such composites
can be attached to soft textile materials in order to change the rigidity of clothes
elements. As it is known [2], there is a limited list of fibrous materials
which can be applied in composites manufacture. From this list it is more suitable
to use carbon fibres for clothes manufacture according to safety reasons for
health of the human.
Experimental
researches have shown that elements from carbon threads can be made by various
braiding techniques for formation of a tapes or plaits or laying out of
threads. Such techniques as a braiding, a macramé, a chain of air loops
and semi-columns can be used. The form, width and a thickness of a rigid
composite element are defined on performance requirements of a product.
We suggest to fix
braided carbon tapes on a fabric by a direct or zigzag machine line. The stage stitching
is obligatory because it is necessary to make rigid fastening of a carbon tape
on clothes detail. After the stitching it is necessary to impregnate elements by
binding epoxy or glue PVC. This will give the composite element the rigidity which
significantly exceeds textile materials rigidity. Thus, the rigid composite
elements and a soft textile material form one unit.
For successful
use of composite materials in apparel production it is necessary to define the places
of garment which demand considerable change of properties but do not
influencing ergonomics. We suggest to classify parts of a garment according to
their functions into protective, supporting, reinforcing and soft elements.
Protective elements
are the elements of the design with specific properties, for example,
maintenance of improved comfort, simplification of movements, prevention of
harmful external influences, i.e. the special properties which are dictated by
product purpose and service conditions. It is possible to attribute to the
protective elements the materials which are covering a rigid element in order
to not cause inconvenience at operation.
The elements
which provide stability of the garment preset form at external stretching or
compressing deformation are considered as supporting elements. In clothes such
elements are the areas which correspond to supporting surfaces, and areas where
item internal curvature sharply changes.
Reinforcing
elements are high-duty elements consisting of a textile material which are
intended for moving of deformed external loading in the set direction inside
the item. These elements possess the increased potential energy of a working
environment, hence, they should have durability, firmness to such cyclic
loadings as a repeated bend or a stretching.
Soft elements are
the areas which are not supporting, and also not having another other external
influence except a gravity operating on a material. The biggest soft elements in
clothes are the details made of basic material and performing aesthetic
function.
At the first stage
of garment design with rational distribution of rigidity it is necessary to analyze
the form of a product for definition of protective, supporting, reinforcing and
soft elements position. These elements can be imposed against each other in
different places. For example, in a corset on lateral parts of a lining there
are reinforcing elements which perform power function and above them there is
outer layer of main material which is soft element.
As a result of
the garment form analysis the design object is broken into zones with different
properties. The form defines features of design process. It is necessary to
design supporting elements according to the form of supporting surfaces,
occurrence of constructive defects otherwise is inevitable. The great number of
engineering methods for involute of
surface design is known and can be used at the given stage. The input
information for design is the three-dimensional form of the supporting surface
and such properties of materials as an extensibility and admissible change of
network angles.
The soft elements
must be designed focusing attention on drapability and rigidity of a material in
order to avoid the errors connected with reflection of these properties in the
volume form. Requirements to design of protective elements are based on
properties of the materials which influence the conveniences. Materials should
be harmless, hypoallergenic, pleasant to the touch, not causing irritations.
Reinforcing elements
must be designed according to multicyclic characteristics such as a stretching,
a repeated bend, repeated abrasion, because these elements stand greatest
loading during the movement of the person.
The stated aspects
of design has been used for creation of experimental clothes samples which
posses preset distribution of the rigidity, high form-stability and sufficient
ergonomics that allows to recommend use of composite materials in a clothing
industry.
References:
1. Конструирование одежды с элементами САПР, под редакцией
Е.Б.Кобляковой: учебник (2007) – М.: КДУ– 464с.
2. Конкин А. А. Углеродные и другие жаростойкие и
волокнистые материалы (1974) – М.: Химия,. – 375 с.