Philosophy/5. Philosophy of religion
Kazah Natsional University by name al-Farabi,
Kazakhstan, Almaty
Women head wraps in Central Asia
PhD, Professor Baytenova Nagima
Master of the 1-year Monkebaeva Kamshat
Among the great number and diversity of women's clothing, existing in
different nations, great interest is the head women's cloaks Asian nations. Especially attractive in terms of
learning is the veil, which in our country has become a symbol of the head of
capes in general. The media
called the hijab head cover any covering the face of women in Islamic
countries. Most people will say
the names of little capes headaches, such as the hijab or abaya, but if you
tell them that this cloak covering the woman's face, it is likely to be heard:
"A veil ...".
The question of the origin and time of occurrence of different types of
headaches capes are not just attracted the attention of Soviet ethnographers. Research on the history of the burqa,
which flourished at the end of XIX beginning of XX century the peoples of
Central Asia, initially were hampered by: the fight against robber bands and
the economic crisis has not contributed to the study of Central Asian costume.
In the 20-30 years of XX century, when the Soviet power in Central Asia
led the fight against the so-called "remnants of Islam", the veil is
almost gone out of use. All
forces were sent to fight with her, she was a symbol of the oppressed women of
the East. The country needs a
cotton and the Soviet government forced to go to the cotton fields of women
whose husbands were killed in the fight against the ideology inculcated. It was believed that "cotton - is
the key to victory over the veil" and "cotton will pull in the gate
Uzbek women." From the burqa
has become unnecessary sewed clothes for children, or use it for other domestic
purposes.
Over time, the veil regained its ceremonial function: it became the
bride to wear during the wedding and the bride in the carriage house of her
husband.
Perhaps, the veil would have remained forever the last page, if not for
Department of Central Asian republics, and return them to the norms of Islam,
this was the reason for the return to a life of head women's cloaks, and, in
particular, the veil, not only as a ceremonial garment, but also for its
intended purpose: to hide his
face and figure of a woman at the exit from the house. In this connection, to get answers to
questions that such a veil, where and when it appeared, it seems quite
interesting.
Modern literature on the veil a little. The most extensive work on this topic
have been published or reprinted in the 70s of XX century (see bibliography). Articles in magazines about the veil
of later times are often based on these studies. Very few illustrations, mostly in
various publications using illustrations from the same album.
Widespread in Muslim countries, women's blankets, throws on his head and
hiding the entire figure, became a particular kind of female clothing off. Head wraps have dual origin: one
developed from a large scarf (fee), for example, veil and cape beludzhek
Persians, and, most likely, the Afghan burqa, others come from the coat, collar
draped over his head. This type
of head capes spread among the peoples of Central Asia, except for the Baluch
(people living in Pakistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan and preaching
Islam).
The fact that the Central Asian veil is very different from the female
parent capes in neighboring countries is not surprising, since this type of
clothing formed from different people on different basis.
Persian veil (chadir, Chodari) consisted of a large shawl or two
shawls. But since this design
does not provide full figures conceal a woman, the veil was complemented by
special street trousers, which were not at home.
Afghan burqa - chatri probably formed from the tissue, raskroennogo in a
semicircle. It consists of a
round, tight-fitting head cap, which is sewn into the assembly, this kind of
cloak or boards, large enough to envelop a woman from head to toe. Chatri complemented by street
trousers, tucked into that dress. Both
of these forms of street clothes, Persian and Afghani, although at a much
different appearance, have much in common, in principle, the design.
Street Wear peoples of Central Asia, including Tajiks and Uzbeks -
residents plains areas of ancient irrigation where developing sedentary,
particularly urban culture, and where a particular development has been the
seclusion of women - is very different from the head women's capes Asia.
The difference is rooted in the very origins of this fashion: in
contrast to the Central Asian Persian burqa veil is not formed from a
handkerchief, and swing from the shoulder clothing that were worn on the head
collar.
Bathrobe, jumped on his head, was in Central Asia, a lot of options and was a
different stage of its transformation into a special kind of clothing - from
the gown, which is worn on the head, then as a normal Armor clothing in the
sleeves, to the veil and Turkmen capes (purendzhek and chyrpy), which served only capes.
If you jumped on his head in the robe sleeves not worn it in a more or
less deformed: varied mainly sleeves, which are folded back. In some ways they are lengthened and
narrowed in others - simply fastened behind their backs. The most advanced form of such cloaks
were of the Uzbek-Tajik veil (ill.1), as well as Turkmen purendzhek, while the
head cover in some other groups hardly differed from the gowns, worn on the
sleeve. As much has not changed
the cut of capes, gowns coming from, you can easily find them in a swing tunic
dress, with all the features of its breed: long and narrow sleeves veil made
from the same cross-pieces of fabric, as well as on an ordinary robe, made the collar, pockets, available on
some versions of the burqa (Tashkent, Fergana Valley), the same arrangement as
in lab coats - they are vertical, made in the joint. But, by turning them into decorative
detail trim pockets are more richly, and hole pockets either disappeared
altogether or were used for cross-cutting and threading arms.
Of the various headaches occurred robe cloaks semi Uzbeks and Tajiks,
many groups, called dzhelyak (in Shahrizyabse in rural Uzbekistan Samarkand
region)., Dzhegde (Khorezm Uzbeks), kurta (Karluk, Uzbeks, Turkmens) and Peshwa
(South Uzbeks in Uzbekistan).
Of the female head of the Central Asian capes are the following:
1. Veil - is the most
complete form of head cover. Was
particularly prevalent in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. As is typical of urban clothing, it
has never been characteristic of the everyday dress of the women's mountain
villages, and are found mainly in cities and occasionally in major villages.
2. Robes - sargirak,
zhelakbosh, halatcha - which combine the function of shoulder dress with a head
cover. Sometimes used as capes
made several shorter gowns.
3. Capes, gowns (yakhtak,
dzhelyak, farisar), which is strongly modified: narrowed and shortened, with
narrow and short sleeves, fastened at the back braid. They are specially adapted to the role
of head cover.
4. Material mantles of
white, sleeveless, with a semi-circle shape - sarkashak.Appeared in the last
years before the establishment of Soviet power.
5. Great white, sometimes
black, factory shawls, capes used instead.
Head wraps, sleeveless capes were the further development of the type of
veil, sleeves which have a purely decorative piece.
Previous stage in the history of capes formed by shoulder dress, was the
head women nakidyvanie when leaving the house the usual robe - his own, a
husband or son. In many places,
and in a large urban center, as Tashkent, in the second half of XIX century
wore on his head munisak (a type of women's robe), which was used as a regular
clothing. Only at the end of the
XIX century the veil is widespread. Only
this time, or a little before the veil was a special kind of universally
feminine clothes off. Have been
developed all of its original, strictly defined in the tradition of each region
features.
Formation of Muslim dress in Central Asia has been a long and complex
process.The appearance of the veil is associated with religious fanaticism,
which has appeared a reaction to all progressive, especially after the death of
an enlightened ruler of Samarkand Ulugbek, and the gradual deepening of the
influence of orthodox Islam in later centuries. This explains the wide spread of the
veil and the seclusion of women, especially among the urban Muslim centers of
Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, and the absence of the veil in the rest of the
region, even among the rural population.
Why dress gown - Faraj - served as a starting point in the appearance of
head cover veil? Maybe because in
the late Middle Ages it was clothing of the clergy.But it may be because the
term "Faraj" the former ancient Sogdiana where in modern times has
been extended veil, belonged to the ritual clothing, which was associated in
the past with the cult of Anahita - Zoroastrian deities of the pantheon, the
mother goddess and fertility, patron of agriculture , personified in the grace of water in
Central Asia of the Amu-Darya and the sun god Mithras. And this ritual clothing has long been
included in the bride's dress, which, according to the Central Asian beliefs,
was the embodiment of the earth goddess of fertility, her earthly counterpart.
Analysis of cut veil leads to several conclusions. Burqa, which hides a figure Muslim
women cape, was associated with Islam only in the last stages of its history,
and the Arabs brought it to Central Asia. It
developed out of local forms of dress according to the ideological and social
standards of life of Central Asian society. The
tradition of wearing evolved over many centuries in the process of
communicating with the residents of Central Asia and neighboring peoples with
changes in the social sphere. At
various stages in its history, Central Asia was part of the various states
(drevneiranskoe, Arabic, Mongolian, Russian), so the opportunities for mutual
influence and direct borrowing was enough. But
the influence of other nations for centuries hindered the power of tradition
that had to be scrupulously respected, and the deviation from them was seen as
a violation of the vital foundations of society. But for now will remain a patriarchal
way home, do not disappear and the power of tradition. Therefore, in the clothing of the
peoples of Central Asia, so much originality and uniqueness.
Office of the peoples of Central Asia on Russia in the late twentieth
century, gave an impetus to the restoration of independence and
self-determination for the peoples of these countries. Return to the Central Asian peoples to
Islam, reviving the wearing of head capes in everyday clothes. While the influence of extremists in
Central Asian countries are not significant, but with the strengthening of
their influence, the number of women in the head cover will increase
dramatically, as it was in Afghanistan when the Taliban came to power, and
women put away their homes, forbidding them to appear on the streets
unaccompanied by men, to go to
work and school.
Now for the violation of this decree woman in Taliban-controlled areas,
waiting for either a prison sentence, or flogging with a whip.
In some countries, national traditions, non-Islamic by the canons, impose
a strong imprint on Muslim rule. In
countries where not provided adequate training of the population, and ethnic
traditions are woven into the Islamic view, and often not only easier, but also
distort the Islamic values.
Ha really is no veil or burqa in the traditional Sunni Islam does not
exist. Wearing a veil covering
the face of a woman, not a mandatory injunction of Islam, as many mistakenly
believe. This is only a tradition
adopted by some Muslim communities.As for some of the backward states, where
the women wear head bags with slits for eyes, it is not due to the medieval
barbarism of Shari'a requirements and aspirations of the private property of
men, their lack of culture, fanaticism and obscurantism.
Believing woman ordered to wear a scarf or a special blanket spacious -
"hijab", which are symbols of the dignity of a Muslim, her face in
this case remains open.Clothing should meet the generally accepted notions of
modesty in Islam: not slim silhouette, not to be transparent and low-necked
dresses, and skirts should not have any cuts, and their length should be
possible. Sharia prohibits the
wearing of wigs, especially men, fake nails, and other counterfeit items,
prohibits plucking eyebrows, but allows the believing women to a reasonable use
of perfumes and cosmetics.
The used literature
1. Abdullaev, T. Clothing Uzbeks (XIX-XX c). - Fan, Tashkent, 1978.
2. Suit the peoples of Central
Asia: historical and ethnographic essays. -
Moscow: Nauka, 1979.
3. Lobacheva N. veil: Ritual suit
or wedding dress. - "Asia
and Africa Today", 1995, N8, Ð.78-80.
4. Sukharev, OA History of the Central Asian costume
Samarkand (second half of the XIX-the beginning. XXcen.). - M., 1982.
The author's inquiry
1. A surname, a name: PhD, Professor Baytenova
Nagima Zhaulybaevna
2. A study place, the status: master of the
1-year faculty of philosophy of the Kazakh National University by name
al-Farabi Monkebaeva Kamshat Zharilkasinovna
3. The address: 050063, Almaty, Sayin street, the house 81
Publisher «Economics»
for Monkebaeva Kamshat Zharilkasinovna
work phone: 276-13-14
mobile phone: 8-701-270-17-78
4. An electronic mail box: kamshat77@mail.ru